General Colubrids

Hot side: 84°–86°F. Cool side: 75°–80°F. Evening: 65°–75°F. Thermometer on the ground, not the wall.

Keep thermometers on both the hot and cool side of the enclosure at all times. We strongly recommend a min/max thermometer on the cool side so you can monitor overnight temperatures.

If cool-side or evening temperatures drop below these, your snake may start to refuse food.

Your snake should have a water dish large enough to curl up in and submerge its entire body, deep enough that water remains after the animal climbs out.

Humidity depends on the region your species comes from. Desert snakes need less than snakes from places like Florida.

Keep a hide on both the hot and cool side of the enclosure, ideally tight-fitting. Make the hides humid by occasionally misting the substrate inside them; that keeps your snake hydrated and its sheds complete. Always check the tail tip and eyes, the most problematic shed areas.

Baby/juvenile: floor space of 20 by 10 inches. Adult: 36 by 18 inches minimum for most species.

Adults especially do best with a solid top, which holds heat and humidity. Enclosures must be escape-proof: secure screen tops with reptile cage clips and put the drop pin in sliding tops.

Many options suit these North American snakes: pine shavings, aspen shavings, Repti-Soil, Bio Active Supply substrates, Forest Floor, Eco Earth and more.

Prey should be the same thickness as the thickest part of your snake. Transition your snake to thawed frozen rodents; a live rodent can injure or kill a snake that isn't hungry.

Feeding schedule.

Baby/juvenile: hopper or adult mouse, or rat pup, every 5 to 7 days.

Juvenile to sub-adult: rats every 7 days.

Adults: rats every 7 to 10 days.

If enclosure temperatures drop below our listed lows, your snake may go off feed; that's its signal that winter is coming.

For daytime lighting: 12 hours on, 12 hours off. UVB optional.