Boa Constrictors

Reptiles are cold blooded - they must utilize their environment to properly regulate their body temperature. It is critical that captive reptiles are able to both warm up, and escape the heat as they wish.

Hot side: 88°–92°F. Cool side: 78°–82°F. Evening: 70°–75°F. The thermometer should be on the ground (where the snake is!), not the wall.

Keep thermometers on both the hot and cool side of the enclosure at all times. We strongly recommend a min/max thermometer on the cool side so you can monitor how cold overnight temperatures are getting.

If cool-side or evening temperatures drop too low, your boa may start to refuse food.

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Your snake should have a water dish large enough to curl up in and submerge its entire body, deep enough that water remains after the animal climbs out.

Humidity depends on the region your species comes from. Most boa constrictors thrive with humidity around 60% to 70%. Humid hides can be utilized to offer the snake moist microclimates rather than keeping the entire enclosure moist. A humid hide is an enclosed space (hide box, Tupperware container, etc.) with a snake-sized entry point filled with a damp substrate, often sphagnum moss.

Provide a minimum of two tight-fitting hides; one on the warm side and one on the cold side. Other mindfully placed decor may be used to make the enclosure aesthetically pleasing and enriching for the snake.

Enclosure sizing needs vary by species and their average size range. As a handy rule of thumb: the enclosure's length + width should be equal to or in excess of the snake's  length.

Boa constrictors can be successfully maintained in a variety of enclosure types. Enclosures made from PVC, wood, melamine, and standard glass 'aquarium-style' can all be good options so long as environmental requirements are met. Solid top enclosures are useful in that they retain heat and humidity; if using a screen top enclosure, consider covering up the mesh to prevent heat and moisture loss. Enclosures must be escape-proof: secure screen tops with reptile cage clips and put the drop pin in sliding tops.

Repti-Soil, Bio Active Supply substrates, Forest Floor cypress mulch, Eco Earth coco fiber, and more all work and help hold your boa's humidity. If using a dry substrate such as aspen, be sure to provide humid hides.

Three species currently make up the genus 'Boa': Boa constrictor, Boa imperator, and Boa sigma. There are 8 official subspecies of B. constrictor and many more localities which are maintained in captivity.

Members of the boa constrictor complex range in size greatly; dwarf Boa sigma localities such as the Tarahumara boa average 3-4.5 feet, while true red-tail boas (Boa constrictor constrictor) average 8-10ft with exceptional individuals exceeding 12ft!

Prey should be approximately the same thickness as the thickest part of your snake. We recommend feeding frozen/thawed rodents when possible, as a live rodent can injure or kill a snake with sharp teeth and claws.

Metabolic rates and food requirements vary by species and age. As a general rule, most keepers feed baby boas once every 7 days. The rate of feed should be reduced when the snake approaches adulthood. Many boa constrictors can maintain healthy size and weight while eating an appropriately sized prey item once every ~14 days.

Overfeeding and obesity can cause poor health in all captive snakes; pythons and boas are particularly susceptible due to their slower metabolic rates. Keepers should feed mindfully and with health and longevity in mind.

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Regulate your boa's day/night cycle using lighting on a timer. For regular care, a 12 hours on, 12 hours off light cycle works well for most species.

While UVB lighting is not required for boas to survive, there is growing evidence that exposure to UVB lighting may be beneficial for the health of your snake. If you choose to offer UVB, it should be offered as a gradient similar to heat so that the snake can limit exposure as it desires.

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