Bearded Dragon

Basking (surface temp.): 110°–115°F, measured with a temperature gun. Hot side: 85°–90°F. Cool side: 78°–82°F. Evening: 75°–78°F. Thermometer on the ground, not the wall._‍

Keep thermometers on both the hot and cool side of the enclosure at all times. We strongly recommend a min/max thermometer on the cool side so you can monitor overnight temperatures.

If the enclosure drops below these temperatures, a bearded dragon may start to brumate (hibernate) and stop eating; it thinks winter is coming.

Spraying your animal and its environment is one of the most efficient ways to keep it hydrated. The ideal time is in the morning, about an hour after the daytime lights come on. Avoid spraying in the hour or two before lights-out. Be careful not to over saturate the enclosure; aim for a spray equivalent to a morning dew, never more than what will evaporate within the 4-6 hours. Veggies can also be lightly misted to add moisture.

Most dragons don't readily drink from a dish, but keep a water dish on the cool side at all times anyway. Some owners also soak their dragons weekly in a tub of lukewarm water.

Baby/juvenile: floor space of 12 by 24 inches. Once the animal is longer than a third of the enclosure, size up.

Adult: floor space of 3 by 2 feet minimum; 4 by 2 feet preferred.

Place a hide on the warm side and a hide on the cool side.

Dragons under 6 inches total length should be kept on paper towels or newspaper to avoid impaction. Larger animals can be kept on a sand and soil mix that emulates their natural environment.

Impaction typically occurs when the animal isn't kept at proper temperatures or has an underlying issue, so holding temperatures in range at all times is vital. A lack of proper minerals can also lead dragons to eat substrate.

Bearded dragons are a medium-sized agamid lizard native to Australia. In the wild, there are upwards of 8 distinct species of bearded dragon! In United States herpetoculture, the common pet species are the Central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps) and the Rankin's dragon (Pogona henrylawsoni)

Bearded dragons are omnivores and need both live insect prey and plant matter. Young dragons eat mostly insects and gradually skew toward vegetation as they mature.

Live food: crickets and Dubia roaches are the common feeders for young dragons. Prey must be smaller than the width between the eyes, and more small items beat fewer large ones. As dragons grow, add variety: king mealworms, hornworms, silkworms, wax worms. Gut-load all feeders by feeding them healthy items for 24 hours before offering them; that nutrition passes to your dragon.

Veggies: leafy greens, fresh vegetables, edible flowers and fruit in moderation. Avoid avocado, citrus, mushrooms, spinach, Swiss chard, onions, rhubarb and beet tops.

Baby/juvenile: insects 4 to 5 times a week, veggies 2 to 3 times a week.

Adult: 2 to 3 times a week.

Commercial insects do not contain the spectrum of nutrients that a dragon would consume in the wild, therefore, feeders should be supplemented with calcium + D3 and a multivitamin to fill the gaps. Lightly dust insects with supplements prior to feeding.

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UV lights on 12 hours a day and off 12 hours a night to simulate day and night. UVB is critical for proper bone growth; we recommend a 10.0 UVB fluorescent with as much coverage as possible.

Arrange furniture so the dragon can get within 10 inches of most UVB bulbs. Replace UVB bulbs every 6 months (they emit less UV over time) and write the purchase date on the bulb.